Gorttyowen Loop

The Fastnet Trails are a developing network of waymarked routes on the Mizen Peninsular in West Cork. Currently there are seven trailheads at Lisheen, Kilcoe, Ballydehob, Schull, Colla/Long Island, Toormore and Goleen providing loop and linear walks. An interactive map is available online based on a large wall map in the Bank House Ballydehob which I drew the illustrations for. The Bank House acts as a seasonal tourist centre.

The Gorttyowen Loop (Gort Tí Eoghain – Field of Owen’s House) starts at the Toormore trailhead which is by Altar Church (Teampall na mBocht – Church of the Poor) on the R592. The little church has a fascinating history, described by Finola Finlay on her blog: Roaring Water Journal: Saints and Soupers.

Herself and I went to Toormore on one of those crisp, clear, calm Autumn days that are perfect for walking. I won’t describe the route step by step because the Fastnet Trails website does a good job of that (See link below), but here are some brief highlights…

• The grassy track that rises gently beside the church alongside a small river cascading down towards the sea over rocky outcrops shaded by lichen-covered oaks that look as if they had been there forever.
• The romantically overgrown little bridge spanning the river at the top of the track,
• The small lanes with ample grass in the centre for softer walking,
• The route through the fields, newly fenced to avoid cattle,
• The views across Dunmanus Bay to the Sheep’s Head from the highest point on the route in Arderrawinny (Ard Doire Mhuine: Height of the Oak Thicket),
• The ruined house near the turn back down the track.